International Single Speed Assembly
Tools you'll need:
- 4mm, 5mm, 8mm Allen (hex) wrenches
- 15mm wrench (or an adjustable wrench)
- Cable cutters (or scissors)
Step 0. Inspect for Damage.
It's rare but occasionally components are damaged during shipping. Check to see that there are no dents on your frame or scratches on your rims before before putting your bike together. If you find any damage please take the following steps:
- Save the damaged box! Do not throw the box or any packing materials away.
- Email us photos of the damage and any punctures or damage that you find on the box(es).
- Do not assemble your bike. Please stand by for further instructions. We know that you're anxious to get rolling, so we promise to move quickly.
Step 1. Install the handlebar
Remove all four bolts and the two faceplates from the stem using a 4mm Allen wrench. Put the handlebar in the stem and return the bolts and faceplates.
Before tightening these four bolts all the way, check the angle of the brake lever. You'll probably want it close to 45 degrees from the floor.
Step 2. Install the front wheel
Look carefully on the sidewall of the tire for a direction arrow. Position the arrow at the top of the wheel. It should be pointing forward, in the direction that the bike will travel.
Place the hub axle in the fork and use a number #15 wrench (or an adjustable wrench) to tighten the bolts on both sides of the wheel. They tighten normally, clockwise (righty-tighty, lefty loosey).
If you have locking axle nuts, you'll need to put your key on first. When the key is in place, you'll want to tighten this bolt slowly and carefully so the key doesn't slip off.
The last part is as easy as it is important. To make sure that your brakes are working properly, flip this tiny lever to the down position.
Step 3. Install the rear wheel
- Loosen the bolts on the axle so that you can slide the wheel into the dropouts.
- Push the wheel forward - all the way.
- Lay the chain over the cog.
- Don't forget to close the rear brake caliper just as you did the front.
You'll add chain tension and tighten the axle bolts after installing the crankset.
Step 4. Install the Crankset
Press each crank arm onto the bottom bracket spindle pointing in opposite directions. Use an 8mm Allen wrench to install the crank arm bolts, making sure they are very tight. Both sides screw in normally (clockwise).
Step 5: Setting the chain tension
- With the rear wheel as forward as possible in the dropouts, lay the chain over the crankset.
- Pull the wheel towards the back of the bike until the chain is taught.
- Finger-tighten both axle bolts to keep the wheel in place.
- Now loosen the left bolt and pull the front half of the wheel to the left. The wheel should now be crooked in the frame. Re-tighten the left bolt, just a little tighter than finger-tight.
- Next, loosen the bolt on the right side and pull the wheel back towards the right until it's straight and centered in the frame. As the wheel straightens chain slack will be removed.
- If the chain isn't quite tight enough, continue the process of "walking" the wheel back by loosening and re-tightening each bolt, on alternating sides. Continue until the chain tension is perfect.
Perfect Chain Tension
All chains have tension fluctuations as the crank spins that produce a spot where the chain is the tightest and a spot where it's the loosest. This is normal. You want to find the perfect balance between your tight spot and loose spot.
Too Tight? - When the crank is in the tight spot, the chain shouldn't be so tight that you feel (or hear) resistance. If the crank wants to slow down as you push it through the tight spot, your chain is too tight. This will expedite wear and make it harder for you to pedal.
Too Loose? - At the proper tension the chain should create a straight line from the rear cog to the crankset. If it visibly droops at any point between the rear cog and the crankset it's likely too loose.
Note the straight taut chain line.
Step 5. Install the seatpost
This step is an important one. Your seatpost was shipped with grease on it. This will prevent the post from freezing up inside of your frame. Do not clean the grease off before installing. When two different kinds of metals touch (in this case, steel and aluminum), they can permanently fuse together. The grease is what guarantees you'll be able to remove or adjust this post in the future. Please make sure that there is some amount of grease on every part of the seatpost that touches inside of the frame.
Use a 5mm Allen wrench (or the special security Allen wrench if you opted for the locking bolt upgrade). Make sure the nose of your saddle points perfectly straight ahead. Tip: close one eye, lean over the saddle and make sure it points towards the center of stem.
With the pedal in the 6:00 position and the proper saddle height, your leg should be almost straight but with a slight bend in the knee. Raise or lower as needed.
Step 5. Inflate your tires
Your tires were partially deflated before shipment and need to be topped off before riding. Take a look at the sidewall on your tires to find the max PSI (pounds per square inch) as a guide to inflation. Most 23mm wide tires inflate to 120 max PSI and most 32mm wide tires inflate to 85 max PSI, but this can vary. If you have any trouble locating the max air pressure guide just ask your local bike shop or send us a quick email!
Tip: All inner tubes leak air over time so pumping your tires up should be a weekly habit. We recommend airing up your tires every 7-10 days to ensure they are rolling as and safely and efficiently as possible.
And you’re ready to ride.
Don't forget to record your serial number, register your lock, and register your key.
And in about 1-2 months, go over every nut and bolt on the bike to ensure everything is still snug or ask your local bike shop to do it for you.
If you have any questions give us a shout at (415) 683-6166 or write to firstname.lastname@example.org.