Tools you'll need:
- 4mm & 5mm Allen (hex) wrench
- 15mm wrench (or adjustable crescent wrench)
- Cable cutters (or scissors)
Step 0. Unpack & Inspect for Damage
It's rare but occasionally components are damaged during shipping. Check to ensure there are no dents on your frame or scratches on your rims before before assembly. If you find any damage please take the following steps:
Save the box! Do not throw the box or any packing materials away.
Email us photos of the damage to the bike and any punctures or damage to the box.
Do not assemble your bike. Please stand by for further instructions. We know that you're anxious to get rolling, so we promise to move quickly.
Step 1. Install the handlebar
Remove the four bolts and two faceplates from the stem using a 4mm Allen wrench. Put the handlebar in the stem and return the bolts and faceplates. Before tightening these bolts all the way, check the angle of the brake lever. You'll probably want it close to 45 degrees from the floor.
Finish tightening all four bolts, taking care to do so uniformly. The space between the faceplates and the stem should be the same at all four bolts.
Step 2. Install the front wheel
Look carefully on the sidewall of the tire for a direction arrow. Position the arrow at the top of the wheel. It should be pointing forward, in the direction that the bike will travel.
Place the hub axle in the fork and use a 15mm wrench (or an adjustable wrench) to tighten the bolts on both sides of the wheel firmly. They tighten "normally" clockwise (righty-tighty, lefty loosey).
If you have locking axle nuts, you'll need to put your key on first. When the key is in place, you'll want to tighten this bolt as tight as you can - slowly and carefully.
The last part is as easy as it is important; to make sure that your brakes are working properly, flip this tiny lever to the down position.
Step 3. Install the pedals
Look carefully for an "R" and an "L" on each pedal near the threads. Start with the right side.
Start out by using just your fingers to screw the pedals in. This is important to protect the crank arm. Forcing the steel threads of the pedal into the crank arms - if they are not properly aligned - can cross-thread the arm, trashing the crank. So please make sure that the threads are properly lined up.
Once you're sure that the threads are properly aligned, you can use your 15mm wrench to tighten the pedal all the way. Snug is good, no need to over-tighten.
Repeat the same procedure with the left side with the following exception. THE LEFT PEDAL SCREWS IN BACKWARDS. Counter clockwise. This design prevents you from unscrewing the pedal as you ride.
Tip: If your wrench won't fit into the small space between the pedal and the crank arm, do your best to tighten the pedals as far as they'll go, and carefully and slowly ride your bike to the nearest bike shop. They have special tools that will fit into the smallest of spaces.
Step 4. Install the seatpost
This step is an important one. Your seatpost was shipped with grease on it. This will prevent the post from freezing up inside your frame. Do not clean the grease off before installing. When two different kinds of metals touch (in this case, steel and aluminum), they can permanently fuse together. The grease is what guarantees you'll be able to remove or adjust the post in the future. Please make sure that there is some amount of grease on every part of the seatpost that's inside the frame.
Use a 5mm Allen wrench (or the special security allen wrench if you opted for the locking bolt upgrade). Make sure the nose of your saddle points perfectly straight ahead (tip: close one eye, lean over the saddle and make sure it points towards the center of stem).
With the pedal in the 6:00 position and the proper saddle height, your leg should be almost straight but with a slight bend in the knee. Raise or lower as needed.
Step 5. Inflate your tires
Your tires were partially deflated before shipment and need to be topped off before riding. Take a look at the sidewall on your tires to find the max PSI (pounds per square inch) as a guide to inflation. Most 23mm wide tires inflate to 120 max PSI and most 32mm wide tires inflate to 85 max PSI, but this can vary. If you have any trouble locating the max air pressure guide just ask your local bike shop or send us a quick email!
Tip: All inner tubes leak air over time so pumping your tires up should be a weekly habit. We recommend airing up your tires every 7-10 days to ensure they are rolling as and safely and efficiently as possible.
Congratulations, you’re ready to ride
Don't forget to record your serial number, register your lock, and register your key.
In 30-60 days go over every nut and bolt on the bike to ensure everything is still snug (or ask your local bike shop to do it for you).
If you have any questions, give us a shout at (415) 683-6166 or write firstname.lastname@example.org.
8-Speed Hub Removal/Installation
For future reference for 8-speed riders, here's a video explanation of how to remove, install, and tube your Alfine hub and shift cable.